No rest for the weary! Let’s see how far I get with this list today 🤨💪🏻
6 1532:58 PM Sep 16, 2018
Wave Log 10
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“WOW you surf? They are almost surprised a bit...But it's good to start seeing more Asians out there surfing.” ...I was actually always afraid of the water since where I grew up swimming wasn't really a priority. My dad knew how to swim but my mom didn’t at all. She was really afraid of the water. I remember when I was seven or eight I literally almost drowned in one of our community pools, in the shallow end. Kinda really rattled me. I realized my fear of the water - I would take a shower and I feel uncomfortable even putting my face in the stream of water... ….So when I was at UCSD, I was a bioengineering major and it was really hard- really, really hard -there were moments I was just like I want to drop out, where you kind of question, like why are you doing things. I would talk to my parents a lot and tell them I’d wanna quit- I don’t want to do this anymore….One of the things that would calm me down or at least like relieve my stress is overlooking Blacks Beach. I would just sit there in between classes and just kind of think about life -think about why I was doing what I was doing and just kind of meditate-.ya know? On that cliff you can see the ocean and I saw surfers rippin and shreddin’ it out there. And, I was like man, wouldn’t that be cool if someone who didn’t know how to swim and was always just afraid of the water, could just overcome his fear -and take that a step further.... and learn how to surf…..”
“There is a sensation when you first get in the water that I find impossible to capture anywhere else in my life".
We are dedicating our latest article (link in Bio) to a wonderful short documentary from @joeminihane and @bencoxfilm exploring how Joe found relief from anxiety, not just in the cold water he swam in, but by being open and honest about his own mental health.
Wave Log 9: "Tired Boy"
The excitement is gone, the friends have gone home, and all you are left with is the grind.
Spot: All over SoCal.
Go: Work on your paddle sprint. I'm not paddling fast enough on smaller waves. It's difficult, It's tiring, and I just want to give up. And those longboarders piss me off. The path to a shortboard is a long one.
Pro: Summer is over and I'm still here. This is where it really matters.