Some progress on my Claire semi-mock-up ! I am planning to keep this version and use it for non cosplay XVIIIth century casual wear.
This costume is deceptively simple and actually full of seams ! The jacket is formed of 10 pannels, plus the 2 parts "skirt".
The patterning process for this piece has been very interesting ! I started using a pattern from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (vol 1) and altered it to be screen accurate. The patterns from Arnold's books are drawn from actual surviving garnments that belonged to actual people, and this one fitted me pretty much perfecty, which I find to be quite moving ^^
To make the pattern screen accurate, I :
- elongated the back portion because strangely it was 2cm shorter than the front - moved the side seam a little further to the front
- made the arm opening a little bit deeper
- divided the back into 3 curved pannels
- made the front more covering and added a neckline (the original was very open on an embroidered stomacher)
- seperated the front into two pannels
- merged the 2 halves of the "skirt" and added the boxpleats at the center back
You can slide to see the pattern I started with from the book and the final altered pattern ! (the original book one is missing the back portion of the skirt)
This will get a lining and a few boning chanels, at the front opening and center back.
Auch das kam gestern mit der Post an. Der Rockschnitt ist für eine Freundin, aber das lange Modell gefällt mir selbst ganz gut und ich habe da gleich schon wieder eine komplette Outfitidee. Ich brauche langsam echt mehr Zeit... Das Patterns of Fashion 5 möchte ich bereits seit meiner Ausbildung. Naja was lange wärt... Ich wollte sogar im März den 2tägigen Kurs zu diesem Buch an der School of Historical Dress machen, aber leider war dieser nach 2 h schon ausgebucht. So schnell konnte ich nun wirklich nicht reagieren 😔 That arrived yesterday by mail too. The skirt is for a friend, but I like the long model quite well and I have a complete outfit idea. I really need more time ... The Patterns of Fashion 5 I already want since my apprenticeship. Well, what a long time ... I even like to visit the 2-day course with this book theme at the School of Historical Dress in March, but unfortunately it was booked out after 2 hours. I could not react that fast 😔 #patternsoffashion#schoolofhistoricaldress#mccallscosplay
0 48:12 AM Jan 8, 2019
@dames_a_la_mode 's #GeorgianJanuary
Day 7: Travel
This is one of my favorite ensembles I have ever made. It's from #JanetArnold's #PatternsOfFashion, the 1745-60s travel costume. I happened to find a lovely ivory quilted cotton fabric which worked fabulously for this look. This one took me a while to complete, as I had to adjust the pattern quite a bit to fit me. My friend Mike and I went and did a lovely photoshoot by the locks in Ottawa.
Photo by: Mike Arnold
Having a little break from my regency dress to make a little chemisette, I have to say working with dotted Swiss fabric is such a charm. It’s delicacy encourages me to be more aware of my mini stitches.
1 45:16 PM Jan 2, 2019
It's time for #GeorgianJanuary! This is my first time participating, extra fitting for today's #beginnings theme. I was just a wee teenage Crystal when i pulled Patterns of Fashion off the shelf of my local public library, and this dress filled my head with dreams ❤ i made my first dress in 2004 from the Butterick pattern, and the rest is history! Hosted by @dames_a_la_mode#1770s#englishgown#patternsoffashion
2 863:34 PM Jan 1, 2019
Hello my lovely friend folks! I am finally getting started on the beautiful mid 17th century stays from the new Patterns of Fashion 5 book. It's so pretty!
It took me a bit of time to figure it out, but I finally convinced my little printer to print the one inch squares to the correct size! Very pleased with my tiny success :)
Now I am just waiting for the fabric to arrive... Should I make a mock-up while I wait?
16 2987:16 PM Dec 31, 2018
I’ve taken the plunge. Been looking at this fabric for a week too worried I’d made a mistake so not wanting to cut into it. But everyone’s year of reflections has taught me that every mistake is a lesson and not to hold back on something.
Day 2 = Best acquisition of 2018. Getting a dress form for graduation was a major upgrade in so many ways. Unbelievably helpful. Currently, I’m psyched to have these two new books. The Patterns of Fashion series has been recommended by so many artists I admire. From the Neck up has fantastic reviews online and I have to say it will prove extremely useful! Now I have so many project swimming in my brain I need to decide which ones to actually make. 😜
1 398:39 PM Dec 28, 2018
Treated myself to some new bits. I’ve become increasingly interested in historical dress and techniques. I have Youtube to blame for this but I guess also just a fondness for history in general really. I’m wondering if there’s a possibility of using some of these ideas as a base and then modernising them so I can, you know, actually wear these things. I also picked up stretch cotton remanent which is a rather generous 1.5m and I’m thinking of making a pencil skirt? Also finally (and not really that exciting) I got myself a thimble. No painful middle finger for me anymore! (I stabbed myself with the needle yesterday - literally pierced about 2cm of skin whilst hand basting an arm scythe 😩🙈 literally the last straw!)
Whew! Finished at the 11th hour. My circa 1560 leather jerkin, heavily influenced by the one in the Museum of London. Mistakes were made, lessons learned, many conversations had with the ghost of Janet Arnold - but I'm happy with the results. The color is slightly darker than anticipated, but as the neatsfoot oil evaporates in the months ahead, it'll lighten a bit. Also - the dye application is patchy - it's more noticeable IRL - but I ran out of Fiebing's British Tan after 2 bottles, so them's the breaks. The brass sleigh bells on the sleeves/wings (tomato/tomahto) are for LoM, and are removable.
After 4 years of bodging something together to wear, the Lord of Misrule will finally be sporting something decent-ish.
#leatherwork#leather#handstitched#pinked#slashed#jerkin #1560 #elizabethan#english#lordofmisrule#spiffy#boarsheadfeasts#christmas#yuletide#museumoflondon#janetarnold#patternsoffashion
Sneak peek of that mid 16th c. leather jerkin I've been scrambling to get finished by next Friday. 😶 Loosely based on the 1560 original currently in the Museum of London, I've taken some liberties on my version, but it's a legit design. The original was made for a younger man, and there are several major flaws in execution (which makes me feel better about my screw ups). Janet Arnold covered this one exhaustively in 1985's Patterns of Fashion - every historical interpreter's bible. I still have to finish the skirts (the right one is in place), wings (very short sleeves), and collar (which I fully expect to be a total nightmare), then oil and dye and seal the whole bloody thing. Oy. 🙄
I started this dress 2 months ago. I was so excited about it but then I moved so I had to put everything into boxes for transport. And Of course it took a while until I unpacked everything... Then I realized many things went wrong. And because I hate start sewing by solving a Problem, the dress lays in my unfinshed sewing pile for quite a while now. I also started a crinoline to go underneath but it doesn't has the shape of a circle at all.. So that went wrong as well.
Besides all that I am still working as a costume assistant and don't have much free time for sewing my own stuff. Well I guess this project will take a while but I'm still looking forward to it!
#sewingprojekt #1850 #historicaldress#patternsoffashion#janetarnold#diy#sewing#fabric#sewingpattern
These are the gorgeous stays and stomacher from mid 17th century, held by the Manchester art gallery. I posted a video asking which bodice I should make from POF 5 and it's looking like these might be taking the lead! I haven't done a full count yet, just eyeing the comments as they've been coming in.
Looks like it might be time for me to get my loom back out of storage! There's a chance that I'll need to be making a lot of trim soon!
22 5054:21 PM Nov 19, 2018
Can't believe I'll be at the conference/book presentation for this book only a week from now! Very excited to hear all the speakers, and see the book, of course! Also looking forward to meeting others who are going :). (The book is available via the school of historic dress for preorder by the way). #historicalcostume#patternsoffashion
15 3355:45 AM Sep 6, 2018
Jenny Tiramani finishes the final stays pattern for Patterns of Fashion 5: a stunning pair of smooth-covered stays and stomacher from the Museum of London collection, c 1750.
PATTERNS OF FASHION 5 IS NIGH! (In case you haven’t already seen the announcement, like, everywhere else.)
I have somehow had the most excellent fortune in getting to tag along with the brilliant team over at @theschoolofhistoricaldress1 in putting together this glorious publication: practicing original construction techniques, befriending the fanciest technical drawing pens, and basically having the grandest time imaginable. And of course I’ve gotten to meet and work with the most inspiring dress historians and fellow students! Prepare to be spammed in the coming months with the wonders of this book because it is, in my biased opinion, going to be revolutionary. Release is scheduled for the end of October and preorder begins in June, so stay tuned for all the excitement! .
Cover design reposted from @theschoolofhistoricaldress1
9 2395:45 PM Apr 21, 2018
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